He could not sleep, feel tired, exhausted and exhausted. He couldn't help but turn to the descent. This is a scene that many climbers have experienced or witnessed. At this moment, serious high-reverse mountaineering enthusiasts may think: “Climbing is not for me. My body is not strong enough and it is not at high altitude.” Is that really the case?

High-reaction is a universal phenomenon

Headaches, insomnia, coughing, and even vomiting and dizziness, these habits we call habitually called altitude sickness, alpine medicine according to the severity of symptoms is divided into acute mountain sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness, referred to as AMS) or acute mountain sickness symptoms.
According to a study conducted by the University of Zurich Medical School, in the tallest building in Europe, among the mountain climbers who stayed overnight in the Margherita hut in the 4559-meter summit of Signalkuppe in the Alps, the percentage of people who reached the acute mountain sickness standard was 53%. The survey sample included Professional mountain guides, seasoned climbers who have adapted for many days and are often active at high altitudes. If you only survey outdoor enthusiasts who are not fully adapted, the proportion will be higher.
According to surveys conducted by researchers in Scotland in the Khumbu region of Nepal, 15% of trekkers had acute mountain sickness at an altitude of 4,000 to 4,500 meters. The rate of elevation from 4,500 to 5,000 meters rose sharply to 51%.
If there is a serious high-level reaction in mountain climbing, that is, acute mountain sickness, it is not necessary to immediately conclude for oneself that “My body is not strong enough”. It should be known that this is a widespread phenomenon. Many serious and high-risk occurrences result from the lack of reasonable Altitude adaptation process.

What is the altitude adaptation process?

In the process of altitude adaptation, the English term for acclimatization is a process that allows one to adapt to the high altitude oxygen-deficient environment. It relates to the climber's physical performance and safety.
The altitude adaptation process can be divided into two categories: the traditional Himalayan large-scale climb, the construction of a battalion on a climbing line, and repeated altitude climbs to adapt to the altitude; the modern alpine climbing uses a single peak, and the simple line before the summit is over the surrounding peaks or the same peak. Make altitude adjustments and observe the target line from a height.
In 2011, two French climbers used 18 days as an altitude adaptation before opening a new route on the north face of the sister peak (6,250 meters) on Siguniang Mountain, during which they climbed two 5,000-meter peaks.
In 2016, Archaeopteryx player Luka Lindic and partner Ales Cesen, in order to complete the extremely difficult climbing Gasherbrum IV peak (7,900 m) in the best condition, repeatedly adapted to the altitude on the Bloat Peak, even to the summit Bloa Peak (8051 meters) of conventional lines is suitable for field training.

The altitude adaptation is not only before climbing at a high level. Some mountaineers in Europe and America choose to climb Mt. Meru at an altitude of 4,566 meters before climbing the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro (5892 meters) in Africa.
The time required for the altitude adaptation process is not directly related to the level of climbing. The gradual increase in the level of climbing does not mean that this process can be shortened in time. The altitude adaptation process has never been included in the modern climbing light and fast range. On the contrary, when the climbing level is gradually increased, the understanding of climbing is more mature. In order to better exert one's own ability in climbing, it will pay more attention to fully adapt to the elevation process.

How to adapt to altitude?

Although various kinds of media have articles on alpine medicine, many mountaineering enthusiasts still do not pay enough attention to or even ignore the altitude adaptation process.

For this purpose, the author asked four mountaineers and senior IFMGA international mountain guides to give an example of the altitude adaptation process with a basic introduction to the snow-capped mountains of Haba Snow Mountain at a level of 5,000 meters and an entrance mountain of Queshan Mountain at a level of 6000 meters.

Special note: The information obtained by the four mountaineers is from the valley to base camp of Haba Snow Mountain and Queyama Mountain, to the altitudes of various camps and peaks, as well as the length, difficulty, risk, and time required for climbing between camps. Can not accurately quantify the expression, so the following elevation adaptation process proposal is for reference only, aims to make mountaineering enthusiasts to form a more intuitive understanding and emphasis on the process of planning elevation.

Four mountaineers

Ales Cesen, IFMGA International Alpine Guide, Slovenia, from a family of mountaineers. The winner of the 2015 Gold Blast Awards, completed the second Alcazar Climb of the difficult Geshulom IV peak in 2016. Prior to this, there was no oxygen and no ropes. Sherpa topped the 8,000-meter-level Brolot. Peak as an altitude adaptation.

David Goettler: IFMGA International Mountain Guide, Germany. He was the head coach of ExpedKader of the German Mountaineering Association Youth Expedition Climbing Team. He was 8000 miles in peaks such as the Gassholam II Peak, Lhotse Peak, Dhaulagiri Peak, and Makalu Peak.

Yannick Graziani: IFMGA International Mountain Guide, France. The rich experience of climbing 6000 to 8000 meters of mountain peaks has won the gold hail special prize for the difficult route on the south wall of Annapurna.

Alexis Mallon: IFMGA International Mountain Guide, France. Senior instructor of ENSA, a French national ski mountaineering school. He has coached instructors for nearly 20 years. He has served as head of the mountaineering department and international exchange department and is responsible for the training and evaluation of Takayama guidance.

The basic principle
For the altitude adaptation process, the basic principles of the four mountaineers are the same:
Starting from 3,000 to 3,500 meters, the height of sleeping camps does not exceed 500-600 meters.
Ensure adequate altitude adaptation time. For the current mainstream of the domestic rising from the valley (Haba Village or Kangding) to the summit, only providing one-day camp adaption of the climbing plan, agreed that the time is too short.
Adequate altitude adaptation can better restore physical strength, climb at a faster pace, and consider climbing across the camp during the peak, which can reduce the exposure to risk while reducing the burden.
Take full rest as much as possible.
Drink plenty of water, absolutely no alcohol.
The golden rule of altitude adaptation: high to low sleep.

Proposal

Haba Snow Mountain

Current domestic mainstream plans
Day 1: Haba Village (2650m) - Base Camp (4000m)
Day 2: Base Camp (4000 meters) - C1 (4500 meters)
Day 3: C1 (4500m) - Peak (5396m) - Haba Village (2650m)

Ales Cesen
Day 1 to Day 2: 2650 meters rose to 4000 meters in two days.
Day 3: Base Camp rest 1 day
Day 4: Base Camp - C1 - Base Camp
Day 5: Camp Rest
Day 6: Resting at Base Camp
Day 7: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 8: C1 - Base Camp
Day 9: Camp Resting
Day 10: Camp Resting
Day 11: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 12: C1 - Peak - Base Camp or Haba Village

Alexis Mallon
Day 1: From 2650 meters to 4000 meters, the elevation is increasing too fast. It is recommended to set up an additional camp at 3,500 meters.
Day 2: From 3500 meters - C1 - Haba Village
Day 3: Rest of Haba Village
Day 4: Rest of Haba Village
Day 5: Haba Village - Base Camp
Day 6: Base Camp - C1
Day 7: C1 - Summit - Haba Village
According to the physical condition, the two days rest on the third and fourth days can be reduced to one day, and the sixth day can also be climbed directly from the base camp across C1 and return

David Goettler
Day 1 to Day 2: From Haba Village to 4000m Base Camp, an extra camp will be needed overnight.
Day 3: Base Camp - C1 - Base Camp
Day 4: Camp Rest
Day 5: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 6: C1 - Peak - Base Camp or Haba Village
Queer Mountain

Current domestic mainstream plans
Day 1: Ganzi (3400m) - Base Camp (4000m)
Day 2: Base Camp Resting (4000 meters)
Day 3: Base Camp (4000m) - C1 (4850m)
Day 4: C1 (4850 meters) - C2 (5350 meters)
Day 5: C2 (5350 meters) - C3 (5750 meters)
Day 6: C3 (5750m) - Summit (6168m) - C1/Base Camp

Ales Cesen
Day 1 to Day 2: Ganzi (3400m) - Base Camp (4000m) completed in two days
Day 3: Base Camp - C1 - Base Camp
Day 4: Camp Rest
Day 5: Camp Rest
Day 6: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 7: C1-C2 - Base Camp
Day 8: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 9: C1-C2 (overnight)
Day 10: C2 - Base Camp
Day 11: Camp Rest
Day 12: Camp Rest
Day 13: Base Camp - C2
Day 14: C2-C3
Day 15: C3 - Summit - Return to Base Camp or Ganzi

Alexis Mallon
Day 1 to Day 2: Ganzi (3400m) - Base Camp (4000m) completed in two days
Day 3: Base Camp - C1 - Base Camp - Ganzi
Day 4: Ganzi rest
Day 5: Ganzi rest
Day 6: Ganzi - Base Camp
Day 7: Base Camp - C1
Day 8: C1-C2
Day 9: C2-C3
Day 10: C3 - Peak - Return to Base Camp or Ganzi

David Goettler
Day 1 to Day 2: Ganzi (3400m) - Base Camp (4000m) completed in two days
Day 3: Base Camp - C1 - Base Camp
Day 4: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 5: C1 - Base Camp
Day 6: Base Camp - C1 (overnight)
Day 7: C1-C2 or C3 (overnight)
Day 8: C2 or C3 - Base Camp
Day 9: Camp Resting
Day 10: Base Camp - C2
Day 11: C2-C3
Day 12: C3 - Peak - Return to Base Camp or Ganzi

Scheme Interpretation
Ales Cesen's proposal is a textbook-style template, including the 8000-meter peak, and altitude adaptation follows this principle. The first round arrived at C1, and then it evacuated to the low camp overnight, that is, the principle of "high to low sleep". The second round stays overnight on C1 and arrives at C2 and then drops. The third round stayed overnight on C2, and so on.

David's plan is similar to Ales's, but it shortens the rest between each round of altitude adaptation. David suggested that as far as possible travel by car to base camp, try to find an opportunity to ascend during this period. Look for suitable hiking routes, install as lightly as possible, and do not burden yourself too much. Start the altitude adjustment process in advance.

Altitude adjustment needs to find a balance between exposure to high altitude environment and rest and recovery. However, each person's adaptability and physical condition are not the same. Therefore, do not climb as many people as possible, otherwise adaptability or physical strength will be weaker. In order to catch up with teammates who are more capable, the team members will consume too much energy and exacerbate the symptoms of acute mountain sickness. The miniaturization of the team, or the splitting of large teams into teams based on individual conditions, according to their own rhythm, can make the altitude adjustment process more effective, thereby alleviating the symptoms of alpine disease and increasing the probability of climbing the summit.

Alexis is more inclined to take a full rest. His view is that an outdoor enthusiast living in an area below 1500 meters in altitude is difficult to fully rest at an altitude of 4,000 meters in the early stage of adaptation. Therefore, if possible, as far as possible to withdraw the low-altitude Haba village or Ganzi rest, you can better adapt to the body and recovery.

Yannick is also the same opinion. The speed to the base camp must be slow. If the height of the base camp is four or five kilometers, it takes at least five days to go on foot to base camp. “I often go to Khumbu to climb. Whenever I go to the base camp on foot, I will spend two days at the inn of about 3,500 meters, and then continue to go up. After arriving at the base camp, I will rest 3~5 days according to the altitude. , drink, sleep, and then arrange to continue to go up.At the time of adaptation, pay attention to physical distribution, do not be too embarrassed to yourself, at the height of four or five kilometers, no matter how rest can not be restored to full strength.If you want to adapt faster At an altitude, try to sleep 1 or 2 nights at a height of about 1000 meters below the peak before the peak to confirm that the body functions have adapted to the high altitude environment.”

In the end, both Yannick and David stressed that it is necessary to arrange at least 1 to 2 days of rest before the summit. Only a reasonable and adequate altitude adaptation process can reduce the chance of mountain sickness in mountain climbing and ensure a better physical condition. Yannick's suggestion is that the 6,000-meter mountain peak will take about two weeks, the 7000-meter peak will take one month, and the 8000-meter peak will take 45 days.

Time is the first element of the altitude adaptation process, and leaving sufficient time for adaptation is responsible for your own body. Work and holidays are not reasons to shorten or skip the adaptation process.

Many commercial climbs, especially outside the IFMGA, have severely reduced the altitude adaptation process for cost reasons. When the author discussed this topic with IFMGA chairman Christian Trommsdorff, he said: “The altitude adaptation process is an integral part of the IFMGA guidance system. It is the responsibility of the modern Alpine guide to assist the customer in performing or confirming the altitude adaptation process because it is a matter of climb. Physical performance and safety."
It is hoped that more mountaineering enthusiasts and business climbing organizers will be able to better understand the altitude adaptation process and climb safely.

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February 17, 2023